Formerly one of
three French Indo-Chinese states, Laos is slowly becoming a
tourist hotspot. With the new and well-equipped Luang Prabang
airport now catering to direct flight from Chiang Mai in
Thailand this recent trend can only continue. While still not as
developed as some of its Asian neighbours there has been a slow
but steady build up of tourist related facilities and
infrastructure. There are now enough amenities to make
travelling to Laos accessible for non-adventure types but
equally huge swathes of the country are untouched and visited by
relatively few travellers. While there be sure to take advantage
of this fact as Laos will not remain immune to the hordes of
tacky tourist traps forever. It is no exaggeration to say that
there has never been a better time to visit Laos.
There are some
security risks to be aware of when travelling in Laos
particularly concerning the Xaysombourne Special Zone, travel to
and around this area is advised against. There is also a risk of
banditry which is most pronounced in the north of the country.
It is recommended that you only travel in rural areas during day
light and the you exercise caution.
-
Currency: Laotian New Kip (Kp) = 100 cents
-
Time
Zone: GMT + 7
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Language: Laotion although French, English and
Vietnamese are also spoken
-
Telephone Services: Country code +856, Direct
dialling is not available
-
Emergency Numbers: Not present
Climate
Laos benefits
from a relatively predictable and tropical climate, complete
with the associated temperatures. There is a monsoon season
between May and October and a dry season from November to April.
Throughout the year expect hot weather with slightly chillier
climates in areas of high altitude. Lightweight cotton clothes
are advised with at least one sweater for travel to upland
areas.
Things to see
and do
The capital of
Laos is the city of Vientiane, situated on the banks of the
River Mekong the city is home to plenty of temples, shrines,
monuments and markets. The biggest tourist attraction is
probably the Wat Pha Kaew or Temple of the Emerald Buddha. This
16th century former royal temple is now a museum and houses a
collection of Buddha statues from throughout Asia. The other
must-see temple is the Wat Sisaket which is the oldest temple in
Vientiane. It also houses a museum of its own with a very modest
entry fee off 1000 Kip, this is under 10p in British money.
There is also a magnificent triumphal arch called the Anousavari
Monument which was built in 1962 to commemorate the lives of
people who died defending Laos. Also of interest is the Lao
National Museum, the cultural hall and the forested enclave
containing the Wat Sokpaluang temple.
The city of Luand
Prabang is often quoted as the jewel of Laos. This tiny city
houses just 16,000 inhabitants and has been virtually unaffected
by the gradual creep of Western culture across Asia. The main
tourist attractions are its literally dozens of historic
temples. The Wat Xieng Thong and Wat Wisunlat temples are in
particular worth visiting. Within half an hours drive are the
Pak Ou caves which contain hundreds of Buddha images and the
impressive Kuang Si waterfalls south of the city.
If you are
looking for something a little different then you will no doubt
be fascinated by the Laos "Plain of Jars". This area is situated
in the Xieng Khuang province and is littered with enormous stone
jars in five major groupings. These jars are of unknown origin
but comparison with local rock indicates that they did not
originate in the area. The most accessible site is Thong Hai Hin
which is set up to deal with tourists and is also the site of
the largest 6 and a half tonne jar.
Travel
There are only
two methods of travel in Laos, along the river in a variety of
boat tours ranging from standard ferries to speedboats or by
road. River travel is somewhat expensive and the ferries are
notoriously slow so most travellers opt for overland travel.
Buses now link all of the provinces and major cities but the
standards can vary dramatically from converted pick-ups right
through to modern coaches. Services are run by private
individuals and as a result there is no real central resource
for information on bus routes. The best bet is to ask for advice
from your hotel or hostel staff. Many people opt to hire a car
in order to get around Laos, it is not recommended to drive
yourself since the driving style is somewhat hazardous for those
not used to it. However agencies such as Vietnam Horison Travel
dot Com are able to supply hire vehicles
with a local driver.
Accommodation
Tourist
accommodation is somewhat sparse in Laos, in the major cities
such as Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng there is a
modest number of good hotels available. Elsewhere it can be
difficult to find accommodation, there are generally a selection
of village hostels and guesthouses but it is advisable to
contact a tour operator with experience in Laos to help you
arrange accommodation or simply for advice.
Recently the Laos
governments has built "ecolodges" in Laopako, Nam Mgum and Luang
Namtha in a bid to encourage eco-tourism to the country. These
lodges are specially constructed to have as little impact on the
environment as possible and are open to visitors all year.
Health
Outside of
Vientiane healthcare is practically non-existent. Even in the
capital the standard of treatments is basic at best and you will
normally have to pay in cash before being treated. Costs of
repatriation or air evacuation are extremely high and may be
necessary should you require emergency medical treatment. For
this reason it is essential that you have adequate travel
insurance for the duration of your stay in Laos.
Vaccinations are
recommended for typhoid and polio, these can be obtained from
your local GP for around £40. Cholera is also present in the
country and you should seek advice from your GP regarding
relevant vaccinations. Malaria is also present in the country
including strains resistant to chloroquine, you should seek your
GP's advice on what anti-malaria treatment to carry with you.
The water is
unsafe to drink and all water used for consumption or washing
should have been boiled or otherwise sterilised before use.
Dairy products are un-pasteurised and should be avoided. Fruits
and vegetables should be washed, peeled and where possible
cooked before consumption. Meat should be thoroughly cooked and
where possible eaten hot.
Entry
requirements
All visitors to
Laos require a passport valid for at least 6 months after
arrival in Laos. In addition all visitors require a visa for the
duration of their stay. Tourist visas are available from your
local Laos Embassy, Vientiane Airport, Luang Prubang Airport,
Friendship Bridge or Savannakhet. Tourist visas are valid for 15
days and cost approximately £20, multiple entry visas are
available from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. All further visa
or immigration related enquiries should be directed towards your
local Laos Embassy or consulate.
Addresses
There is
currently no Laos representation in the UK, visa and immigration
enquiries should be directed to:
Ambassade de la Republique Democratique Populaire Lao
74 Avenue Raymond Poincaré
75116
Paris
France
Tel: +33 7 30 97 31 53
Fax: +33 1 47 27 57 89
There are no
British Consular services in Laos but in an emergency British
Nationals should contact the Australian Embassy:
Australian Embassy
Rue J. Nehru Quartier Phonexay
P O Box 292
Tel: +856 21 413 600
Fax: +856 21 413 601
Local tourist
information can be acquired whilst in Laos at the National
Tourism Authority:
National Tourism Authority of Laos People's Democratic Republic
BP 3556
Avenue Lang Xang
Vientiane
Laos
Tel: (21) 212 248
Fax: (21) 212 769.
Employment
Labelled the
poorest country in South East Asia, Laos is a developing country
whose people are very much integrated into traditional values of
living and hospitality. Most who travel to this country in a gap
year or otherwise generally do not do so with the intention of
finding work. Employment is hard to come by and is unlikely to
pay very well. Instead, people take part in the development
process as volunteers teaching English, or go to Laos simply for
the environment. Laos is a mountainous country and neighboured
by Vietnam and China, many expedition organisations lead treks
through these countries.
Paid Work
If you do find
any paid employment in Laos it will be as an English teacher.
Hourly rates can be as much as $7 (approx. £4.22), remember that
there is a low cost of living in Laos. Teachers are often
required to have a degree and TEFL qualification, so this type
of work is not always suitable for those on a gap year before
university. The main area to find such work as this is Vientiane
where many colleges and schools employ English teachers.
Volunteering
Most teaching
opportunities in Laos are more likely to be voluntary than paid
as is the case in many developing countries. A lot of volunteer
organisations operate throughout Asia offering teaching
positions, but given Laos' low population, it is often missed
out by such schemes. Nevertheless, asking around schools in
Vientiane will very likely find you teaching work and although
it is unpaid it is often very rewarding. Try Nita Kindergarden
and Primary School, Lao International College, and JM
International College, all in Vientiane. Most schools will
provide you with food and very often accommodation. Gaining a
TEFL qualification before you leave the UK will also be very
much to your advantage.
VentureCo
VentureCo's
16-week programme combines aid projects with expeditions from
Cambodia, through Vietnam, to Laos, and finally China. The first
three weeks are spent in what is known as 'cultural orientation'
consisting of visiting various places guided by a team who
introduce you to the culture and traditions of the countries,
and learning the Khmer language. The following four weeks
consist of community aid work in Koh Kong, involving teaching
and food distribution to underprivileged children. A 9-week
expedition then follows taking you through Vietnam: Saigon,
HoiAn, China Beach, and Hue City; Laos: Vientiane, Luang Prabang,
and the Mekong River, and finally China: Kunming, Lijiang, the
Yangtze, Xi'an, Beijing, and finishing with a trek on the Great
Wall of China. Programmes with VentureCo are self-funded and can
cost you up to £5000, which includes travel, food,
accommodation, transport, and fees for the activities
themselves.
Pacific
Challenge
Pacific Challenge
arranges a 58-day expedition through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam,
and Cambodia. The nature and orientation of the trek is very
much similar to that of VentureCo. However, Pacific Challenge is
an American company and so departure is from Los Angeles, but if
you are planning on travelling to the USA first you could always
combine the two expeditions. In 2004 the expedition to Laos
departs on September 18th and will cost $4950.
Top
Laos Religion
Laos has a rich cultural heritage
with religious art and architecture forming the cornerstone of
artistic traditions. There exists across the country a plethora
of distinctive monuments and architectural styles. One of the
most notable structures is That Luang, the great Sacred stupa,
in Vientiane. It's dome like stupa and four-cornered
superstructure is the model for similar monuments across Laos.
Stupas serve to commemorate the life of the Buddha and many
stupas are said to house sacred Buddha relics (parts of Buddha's
body).
Generally,
Hiragana Buddhists cremate the dead body then place the bones in
the stupa, which are set around the grounds of temples.
Different styles of architecture are evident in the numerous
Buddhist wats. Three architectural styles can be distinguished,
corresponding to the geographical location of the temples and
monasteries. Wats built in Vientiane are large rectangular
structures constructed of brick and covered with stucco and
high-peaked roofs. In LuangPrabang, the roofs sweep very low and
unlike in Vientiane, almost reach the ground. These two styles
are different from the wats of Xiengkhouang where the temple
roofs are not tiered.
Lao religious
images and art is also distinctive and set Laos apart from its
neighbors. "The Calling for Rain" posture of Buddha images in
Laos, for example, which depicts the Buddha standing with his
hand held rigidly at his side, fingers pointing to the ground,
can not be found in other South East Asian Buddhist art
traditions.
Religious
influences are also pervasive in classical Lao literature,
especially in the Pha Lak and Pha Lam and the Lao version of
India's epic Ramayana. Projects are underway to preserve classic
Lao religious scripts, which were transcripts onto palm leaf
manuscripts hundreds of years ago and stored in Wats.
Another excellent
example of the richness of Lao culture is in its folk music,
which is extremely popular with the people throughout the whole
country. The principle instrument is the Khaen, a wind
instrument, which comprises a double row of Bamboo-like reeds,
fitted in a hardwood sound box. The Khean is often accompanied
by a bowed string instrument or saw. The national folk dance is
the lamvong, a circle dance in which people dance circle around
each other so that ultimately there are three circles: a circle
danced by the individual, another one by the couple, and a third
one danced by the whole party.
Top
Laos History
Laotian
Kingdoms
In 1353, after Laos had first been ruled by Khmers from Angkor,
then by Thais from Sukhothai, Prince Fa Ngoum founded the
Kingdom of Laos or "Lane Xang", as it was called at the time, as
a sovereign state. It extended over present-day Laos as well
parts of what is now North Thailand. The first capital of Laos
was Luang Prabang. King Fa Ngoum made Buddhism the national
religion.
In the 15th century the Vietnamese temporarily occupied the
Laotian Kingdom and Luang Prabang.
In the 16th century Vieng Chan (Vientiane) developed into a
parallel capital of the Laotian Kingdom. Burma, the dominant
power in Southeast Asia in the16th century, gaining strong
influence over Vieng Chan. Nevertheless, in 1563 King
Setthathirat made Vieng Chan the official capital of Laos.
In 1575, the Burmese occupied Vieng Chan and stayed for seven
years.
After two parallel Laotian kingdoms had developed in Luang
Prabang and Vieng Chan, they were reunited in 1591 under King
Nokeo Koumane.
In 1700 Laos broke up into three kingdoms: Luang Prabang, Vieng
Chan and Champassak to the South.
After the Siamese capital Ayutthaya had been conquered and
sacked by Burmese armies, Laos, in 1767, again fell under full
Burmese rule. But after only a few years the Siamese kingdom,
with its new capital Bangkok, grew stronger and Laos again had
to obey Siamese overlords.
In 1827 the Laotians under King Anou rebelled against the
Siamese but were soon defeated. The Laotian state disintegrateed.
Colonial
Times
In 1868, after having annexed South Vietnam as a colony and
having turned Cambodia into a French protectorate, the French
sent an initial expedition to Laos to investigate the Mekong
trade route to China.
In 1886 France received permission from Siam largely ruling Laos
to install a vice consulate in Luang Prabang. In 1887, Siam,
anticipating French expansion, vacateds large parts of Laos.
In 1893 France declared the Mekong the official border between
Laos and Siam. Might is right; Siam accepts the unilateral
decision of big-gun France. Laos officially became a French
protectorate.
However, France had only limited interest in her new possession.
Paris sent Vietnamese officials to Laos to set up an
administration but did little to develop the Laotian economy.
In September 1940, after France was invaded by Germany, Japanese
troops occupied Indochina without meeting any resistance.
Officially the word was that the French colonial power left all
military installation for the Japanese troops to use; in
exchange the French colonial administration remained in office.
Therefore the years of World War II brought less destruction to
Laos than, for instance, to the fiercely contested Southeast
Asian states of Burma and the Philippines.
In East Asia, World War II ended August 14, 1945, with the
capitulation of Japan. Subsequently, France tried to
re-establish herself as a colonial power in Cambodia, Vietnam
and Laos.
On September 1, 1945, Laos declared its independence. France
refused to accept this, and retaliated by sending troops into
Laos. A guerilla war against the French colonial power started.
Independence
On July 19, 1949, France formally granted Laos independence. For
almost three decades, from 1949 to 1975, the political situation
in Laos was highly confusing. Three factions struggled for
power: 1. Conservatives, commanding, among other forces, a
30,000-men army of the Hmong (Meo) hill tribe; 2. Neutralists,
organized by Prince Souvanna Phouma; 3. Communists, lead by a
feudal prince, Souphanouvang (a contradiction Marx had not
anticipated).
The civil war among the three rival factions was, however, not
fought as fiercely as the civil wars in Vietnam or Cambodia.
Several times in three decades coalition governments were
formed, including all three factions. The neutralists usually
led the coalitions.
From 1964 to 1973 the US fought a secret war in Laos against
Laotian communists as well as North Vietnamese troops channeling
war material to the Vietcong in South Vietnam via the Ho Chi Min
Trail through Laos.
After the US forces began their retreat from Indochina in 1973,
the right-wing government in Vientiane was replaced by a
coalition government of neutralists and the communist Pathet
Lao.
In 1975, after communist troops conquered the capitals of
Vietnam and Cambodia, the communist Pathet Lao gained sole power
in Laos. While in Laos, too, parts of the population were
detained in re-education camps, there wasn't the kind of revenge
as in Cambodia. Former neutralist Premier Minister Souvanna is
not even arrested, just demoted in rank to government advisor.
In the following decades Laos cultivateed a close relationship
with Vietnam. The most powerful man in communist Laos, General
Secretary of the Revolutionary Party of the People, Kaysone
Phomvihan, is half Laotian and half Vietnamese.
In March 1991, at the fifth congress of the Revolutionary
People's Party, far-reaching changes of the economic structure
of the country were decided. As in China and Vietnam, private
business, free-market competition and foreign investment are
permitted in order to accelerate the economic development of the
country. However, as in China and Vietnam, political leaders are
not inclined to share power in a multi-party system.
Top
Laos Culture
Laos has a rich
cultural heritage with religious art and architecture forming
the cornerstone of artistic traditions. There exists across the
country a plethora of distinctive monuments and architectural
styles. One of the most notable structures is That Luang, the
great Sacred stupa, in Vientiane. It's dome like stupa and
four-cornered superstructure is the model for similar monuments
across Laos. Stupas serve to commemorate the life of the Buddha
and many stupas are said to house sacred Buddha relics (parts of
Buddha's body).
Generally,
Hiragana Buddhists cremate the dead body then place the bones in
the stupa, which are set around the grounds of temples.
Different styles of architecture are evident in the numerous
Buddhist wats. Three architectural styles can be distinguished,
corresponding to the geographical location of the temples and
monasteries. Wats built in Vientiane are large rectangular
structures constructed of brick and covered with stucco and
high-peaked roofs. In LuangPrabang, the roofs sweep very low and
unlike in Vientiane, almost reach the ground. These two styles
are different from the wats of Xiengkhouang where the temple
roofs are not tiered.
Lao religious
images and art is also distinctive and set Laos apart from its
neighbors. "The Calling for Rain" posture of Buddha images in
Laos, for example, which depicts the Buddha standing with his
hand held rigidly at his side, fingers pointing to the ground,
can not be found in other South East Asian Buddhist art
traditions.
Religious
influences are also pervasive in classical Lao literature,
especially in the Pha Lak and Pha Lam and the Lao version of
India's epic Ramayana. Projects are underway to preserve classic
Lao religious scripts, which were transcripts onto palm leaf
manuscripts hundreds of years ago and stored in Wats.
Another excellent
example of the richness of Lao culture is in its folk music,
which is extremely popular with the people throughout the whole
country. The principle instrument is the Khaen, a wind
instrument, which comprises a double row of Bamboo-like reeds,
fitted in a hardwood sound box. The Khean is often accompanied
by a bowed string instrument or saw. The national folk dance is
the lamvong, a circle dance in which people dance circle around
each other so that ultimately there are three circles: a circle
danced by the individual, another one by the couple, and a third
one danced by the whole party.
