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Nightlife

For the most part, Hoi An is a town that sleeps early, but you can find a few good nightspots. Tam-Tam Café has long been a popular spot for travelers, experts, and locals. Hai Scout Cafe (98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St.; tel. 0510/863-210) is a popular late-night hangout for travelers, offering standard bar drinks as well as cappuccino and espresso and some great baked treats. Friendly Hai runs the show at this long popular courtyard bar and cafe, where, as the Beastie Boys say: "The candlelight is just right, the hi-fi is in the background, and the wine is delicious." Check out their cooking classes, too . Treat's Same Same Café (158 Tran Phu St., at the intersection with Le Loi; tel. 0501/861-125) is also usually hopping as late as it can and has a pool table and a guillotine (for show, of course). Also check out Treat's Same Same Not Different Bar at 31 Tran Hung Dao St. (tel. 0510/862-278), which is, in a word, similar.

The Yellow Star Café (73 Nguyen Thai Hoc; tel. 090/512-4422) serves drinks, and its next-door neighbor, ChamPa (75 Nguyen Thai Hoc; tel. 0510/862-974), has comfy chairs, good wine, and a cozy, late-night atmosphere with frequent cultural dance performances.

Lounge Bar (102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St.; tel. 0510/910-480) is a laid-back, chic stop worth checking out, and nearby Mango Rooms (111 Nguyen Thai Hoc; tel. 0510/910-839) is the town's most popular little bistro and gathering point for local experts and visiting literati. The Mango Room's effusive owner, Duc, knows how to throw a party.